The next thing to do will be to mount your fish finder. Whether you are using a transom mount, trolling motor mount, hull mount or a portable mount, your manual will be able to walk you through the steps to properly mount your model. If in doubt, consult a professional or have a professional mount it for you.

Now you are ready to turn on your fishfinder and get ready to catch more fish. When you first turn the unit on, it will be in automatic mode, meaning that the pre-programmed settings will be in use. As you become more familiar with your model, you will be able to switch to manual mode and customize the settings to the fishing conditions you experience.

To begin, leave the fishfinder on automatic and take a five minute spin around the lake, bay or ocean that you fish in. Watch the display constantly to get a feel for what you see. Don’t worry about catching fish or understanding everything on the display yet. That will come with experience.

Now start adjusting one feature at a time and become familiar with that feature. One of the key settings to play around with is the Sensitivity setting. When you adjust the unit’s sensitivity you are adjusting the power of the fish finder. The simple rule of thumb is, the lower the power (sensitivity) the lower the quality of the view on the display. Experts recommend setting the sensitivity to between 75 and 100%. Trial and error will be the best way to determine the optimal setting for your model.

The next setting to visit in manual mode, is the Fish ID setting. Once you have a feel for your unit, turn off the Fish ID feature and try to get used to reading the fish arches that you will see naturally on the screen. The fish icons displayed by the Fish ID are useful for true beginners, but once you begin to familiarize yourself with the display it is better to learn how to read the natural fish arches. The fish arches will give you a more accurate view of what is under water.

Another feature, Auto Depth, is best used at its pre-programmed setting as you begin using your fishfinder. Using the pre-programmed setting will tell the unit to automatically track the bottom and is best used when you are new to using sonar. As you become more of an expert, you can manually set the upper and lower limits of the display window. The smaller the display window you set the better the resolution will be.

In general, expert anglers eliminate the top few feet of water and stop the scan about ten feet below the true bottom. The display window size will of course vary depending on how deep the water is and what type of fish you are looking to catch. Experiment with the display window size until you are comfortable with both the amount of water you can view and the picture resolution.

As you are becoming more and more familiar with your fish finder, you will notice a horizontal line across the screen. This line is the Depth Cursor and can be moved up or down on the display. When you find some fish, adjust the depth cursor to cut through the fish arches and the unit will tell you exactly how deep those fish are. Now you know exactly how deep to drop your bait.

One last feature to touch on in this article is the suppressor setting. This setting tells the unit how much “back ground” noise to filter out. Eliminating the back ground noise may be helpful, but if your transducer is mounted properly it is generally unnecessary.

If you find you have to use the suppressor to locate fish, then you should check that your transducer is mounted correctly. In general you want to have the suppressor off as having the suppressor setting too high can block the sonar signal entirely and you won’t find fish that way!

Using a fish finder can seem pretty daunting at first, but like anything else in life, it just takes practice. Don’t be afraid to experiment with your model, try different settings, and see what happens. Trial and error will ultimately help you tune your fishfinder to the perfect configuration for your fishing experience. Before you know it you will locate more fish than you know how to catch. Good luck and have fun fishing!

Author: Karen Janos is an expert on fish finders. When she is not fishing she is the webmaster for http://www.fishfindersdirect.com.

Article Source: http://www.articlerich.com

Anyone who reads my articles will already know this rig by heart, but we’ll cover it again. It’s as simple as they come. Slide on a 3/8 oz. Lead. Then, slip on a small bead and tie on the smallest swivel you can find. Below your swivel, tie a 3 ft. length of Fluoro Carbon monofilament as your leader. A #2 Kahle hook will work fine for your bait holder and hook setter.

When you finally are rigged and ready to fish, cast a rig out and let it hit the bottom. When it does hit bottom, let out another few feet of line so the shrimp can swim out from the weight and do his job. Slack in your line will not matter. This is the KEY to this type of fishing. Don’t reel your line tight. The whole idea is to let the shrimp swim free of the weight and into the current naturally. Once again, this is KEY.

You will know when the fish bites. They normally start out with just a few small pecks at your bait and then eventually swim off with it and your rod will bend over slow and steady, and that’s when you set the hook.

I suggest an Ugly Stik Inshore rod with a very light tip so you won’t pull the hook out of old “softies” mouth when you lay into him. If you need some rod and reel suggestions, please feel free to contact me.

I hope this will be valuable for all inshore anglers. I welcome your feedback, and please let me know how this works for you. Email me with any questions. (charterfish@mindspring.com)

Tight Lines, and take a kid fishing!

Author: cedricary

We offer the finest charter fishing Georgia, Georgia fishing and Brunswick Georgia fishing. We have updated Georgia fishing report and many more… Visit us on the Web.

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When fishing for walleye the smart walleye angler understands there is a need to know how to use walleye fishing lures as well as using live bait  Although like bait accounts for the majority of walleyes caught by angling, there are many times when walleye fishing artificials work better.

One of my favorite walleye fishing tips is to tell people when walleye’s are not in tight schools and they are scattered, a good way to find where the walleye are at is to troll walleye fishing lures. Once you find a school and catch the aggressive fish the action slows. But you may be able to catch a few more by switching to live bait.

When fishing for walleye,trolling and using walleye lures is an excellent way to explore unfamiliar water. Make sure you keep a keen eye when you are following structure lines. Look for points and inside turns on the breakline, areas of hard bottom and schools of fish. If you get a strike or notice a likely spot, toss out a marker so you can return later.

Artificial walleye lures often work better then live bait in fast moving or low clarity water. One of the better walleye fishing tips to remember is walleyes that are in current have very little time to inspect their food, so they tend to strike at any movement or flash.  Walleyes in murky water may be able to see only a few inches, but they can detect the sounds and vibrations from a artificial lure.

There are some significant reasons some walleye fisherman pick lures when fishing for walleye at night. When you are fishing for walleye at night you need to understand that walleyes can spot the moving silhouette of a artificial lure against the water’s surface much easier then say live bait moving slowly along the bottom. Lets not forget too it’s much easier to fish artificials at night because you do not have to bait your hook.

When you are fishing for walleyes and they are on a feeding binge, you can catch them more quickly with lures than with live bait. In the time it would take to remove your old minnow and hook on a fresh one, you can cast a lure and possibly catch another fish.
The choice is yours fishing live bait or artificials, both are good choices for certain situations. Make sure you read my articles on walleye fishing lures, the basics.

Author: Mark Fleagle is an Expert Author At Ezinearticles.com. and has over 30 years of fishing experience who has written 100′s of useful fishing articles. Would you like to max out your catch on your next fishing trip? Blow your fishing buddies out of the water and get your bragging rights today! Also don’t forget to get your free copy of “78 Fishing Discoveries Unleashed” http://www.oldfishinghole.com
Click This Link To Find Out More About walleye fishing lures

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As they pass from this juvenile stage into adulthood, one eye migrates from its original position around the nose of the fish and ends up on the other side. The blind side then turns white and the fish begins swimming horizontally over the bottom with the white, blind side down. Halibut are members of the left-eyed flat fishes, however 40% of them are actually right eyed (the left eye migrates to the right side.)

California Halibut can grow to five feet long and 60 lbs, but most are far smaller. In fact, throughout most of the 1980′s and 1990′s it was very unusual to find a keeper sized Halibut (22 inches.) You would throw twenty back for every fish that measured up.

Now, since conservation efforts and heavy restrictions on where trammel nets (the commercial nets used for flat fish) may be set, the population of Halibut is increasing and the sizes of sport caught Halibut is also increasing. By 1997, about half of all Halibut caught were breeding adults (bigger than 22 inches) so the comeback of this sought after game fish is well on its way.

Catching Halibut

Halibut are masters of ambush. They sit partially buried on the bottom awaiting prey to wander by, then leap out grabbing the unsuspecting forage fish. Halibut usually prefer live bait. Even scientists used to believe they were more like Sole or Sand Dabs grubbing for food and scavenging anything that came by, but now it’s known they’re aggressive predators. They eat sardines, anchovies, squid and any other smaller bait fish.

Halibut range from in-shore beaches, harbors and river mouths, all the way to deep, deep water. They live in over 1000 feet of water. Deep water caught fish are the best eating, but often trophy fish are caught in about 20 feet of water.

To catch Halibut, drift over likely sandy bottom with a live anchovy, sardine, herring or other bait fish (grunion work great too!) with a reverse dropper loop setup – that is, a sinker attached to a loop tied a foot or two above the bait. Keep it close to the bottom and just barely moving to cover more ground.

Halibut wait for bait so if you keep your bait still, it might be literally inches from the tail of a big fish and it would never know it was there. Use just enough weight so that the bait stays on the bottom. When Halibut hit, they mouth the bait first so the strike is more like a slight ticking feel on the line. At this stage have patience, if you set the hook too soon, you’ll pull the bait right out of the Halibut’s mouth. Give it line and when you’re fairly sure it’s got the bait, go ahead and set the hook.

Halibut will also strike lures. Rubber swim baits seem to work best and are even more effective when baited with a thin strip of cut squid. Halibut have even been known to come up off the bottom and strike deep trolled salmon lures.
Preparing Halibut

On the boat, have Halibut headed and gutted, then ice them down quickly. The meat is delicate so spoils easily. Once home peel four nice fillets off the fish. Don’t bother trying to steak the fish, like Pacific Halibut in the grocery store, the local variety are usually too thin for this. Be sure to peel off the engawa (outer strip of meat at the base of the fins.) The Japanese know how to find these great eating morsels on different types of fish. It makes excellent sashimi!

Eating Halibut

Halibut are one of the best eating fish in California waters and have the most broad appeal to people with different tastes. I’ve never heard anyone ever say that fresh Halibut tastes fishy. They’re excellent as sashimi, baked, broiled, fried, sauteed, and even poached. The meat is light, delicate, flavorful, and mild.

Author:  Jeff Spira is a fishermen and writer of fishing and seamanship books. His web site California Ocean Fishing offers further insights into this fun sport and has links to online sources for his books on the subject.

Article Source: http://www.articlerich.com

The first rule should be followed while fishing down the river from the other anglers. Never go into the space of an angler who is landing a fish on the bank of the river. The every day rules that you take your line out of water for any other angler which has a fish on the line, due to the fact that the angler has a lot of space for landing their fish.

Do not bring your dog or any radio which can create sound because you need to be silent. If you create sound you may disturb the fish and they may run away. The other is you must not destroy the silence and peace fullness of other fly fishers.

Every day spent in fly fishing gives you more experience therefore, you should also make friends with other fly fishers, because they may have more tips for you and ultimately also help them out also. You should also help them in finding any thing which floats down the river or while lending them something that they might need, for example an extra line. Fly fishing gives you and entertaining day by helping and finding more familiarities.

Wading is a wonderful way to for a fly fisher to enter into different places that he has never discovered before. The wading gear should be flexible and strong and fly fishermen should be familiar with the area. The fly fisher should follow some of the few basic rules of fly fishing which include firstly never fish by yourself on remote lakes, rivers, or streams. And, wear a good pair of wading boots and all material should be flexible and strong.

A tackle box is a box in which a fly fisher can hold certain amount of lures in it which are necessary for performing the sport. The tackle box helps all of the stuff to be stored in a organized place, often a situation comes in which the box becomes overfilled which may be avoided and instead the fly fisher should keep two small tackle box to meet the requirement of different categories of equipment. If the seasonal tackle boxes are purchased they can be utilized at any certain period of the year.

The fly fisher should bring only required items from his house he must not bring any useless item and should use a fishing vest to carry around and manage his lures. A fishing vest will help him find any thing which he requires and can be retrieved from its specific place and the chances of fumbling is reduced.

Author: Matt Chang
Asking yourself ” Where can I find cheap bamboo fly rods for sale?” Visit allintofishing.com to get details fly fishing tips and places to get cheap bamboo fly rods.

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Here are some important largemouth bass fishing tips that you need to know:

One: When you are fishing for largemouth bass, the area that you decide to fish in is very important. You need to determine if there is a current, how much shade there is, if the water is clear or murky and even what the underwater terrain is. These are all things that you need to study and learn about in order to have the most success when fishing for these fish.

Two: One of the most important tips for largemouth bass fishing is that you need to have the right equipment to catch these fish. Don’t get any items that are not quality because they will not do you much good. Have you ever heard the saying, “you get what you pay for”? Well, when fishing for largemouth bass, this is very true, so make sure that you get only the best equipment.

Three: One thing that many people don’t realize is that the bait you use is vital to your success in catching largemouth bass. The best bait to use is live bait because this seems to attract the largemouth bass the most. You have to take into consideration how you are storing your live bait for freshness. The best way to make sure you have good bait is to get the bait right before you start fishing for these bass.

Four: One of the largemouth bass fishing tips that you don’t hear too often is to go out and try different things. There are many things that work when fishing for largemouth bass, but if you don’t try new things, then you will never know if they will work for you or not. So, don’t be afraid to try new things, if it doesn’t work, then you can always try something else.

These are not all of the largemouth bass fishing tips that you need to know about. There are so many others that will help you have success when fishing for largemouth bass. The above tips are very important, but don’t let them be the only tips you learn about. The more you take time to educate yourself on catching these fish, the better chance you will have.

Author: Tim Stokes

If you love to fish as much as I do or just need some information on fishing techniques, come visit me at TheCompleteFisherman.com

Article Source: http://www.articlerich.com

When you want to learn about salt water fishing tackle, the internet is a great resource because there is a lot of information on this subject. You can learn what a beginner needs to use because you don’t want to use any professional fishing tackle until you understand how to successfully catch salt water fish.

Plus, when you research online, you will have all kinds of websites that carry salt water fishing tackle, so you will have a good chance to look at everything that is available. It is a good idea to research the different types of fishing tackle that you find and learn what you can about it before trying to use it. This will help you use it correctly when you try to fish with it. Otherwise, you will not have any luck fishing because your tackle won’t be doing what it is supposed to. So, make sure you know how to correctly use all of the tackle.

It is also a good idea for you to take the time to find someone in your local area that knows about salt water fishing tackle. This will be a great big help, especially if you are new to salt water fishing. They can show you the best fishing tackle to use and let you know any important information about using it. So, if you can find someone who will be willing to talk to you about salt water fishing, you will definitely learn a lot.

The key to having success with salt water fishing is to definitely have the right salt water fishing tackle. Without the correct fishing tackle, you will just end up getting frustrated because you won’t catch anything, no matter how hard you try. So, make sure you do your homework before you go out and try fishing for salt water fish. That way you can make sure you are successful right from the beginning of your fishing trip.

Author: Tim Stokes
If you love to fish as much as I do or just need some information on fishing techniques, come visit me at TheCompleteFisherman.com

Article Source: http://www.articlerich.com

Ultimately we are the product of the vital energy sources we have evolved alongside and have predominantly been dependent upon; and carp are just the same. Just remember for a second that by constant evolution over millions of years, we only see a miniscule number of all the creatures that have ever lived. Most will never show up in fossil records and the chances of finding a so-called human missing link are next to zero.

The creatures that died out due to non-disaster causes will most frequently have died out because their modifications and adaptations to their environment and gathering of vital energy in whatever forms they took, simply failed to enable them to survive to pass on their particular genome. All creatures are subject to predation or diseases and if the mechanisms for survival are not evolved and refined sufficiently it is very probable such creatures will not pass on their genes in future generations and will go extinct.

Most people do not realise that man as a species is a work in progress – and so are carp. For example anyone will have noticed the increase in height in the last 20 years of humans in well fed western countries. In some people vestiges of previous adaptations such as sixth fingers or extra rows of teeth are manifest at birth and we all have spine vertebrae extensions that shows we used to have tails for example.

The growth rates and sizes of carp in the UK and in other countries has skyrocketed in response to many multiple factors. Whereas in the 1970’s and early 1980’s the average UK carp angler would very often have been overjoyed to catch 20 twenty pound carp in a year or even 5; because such big fish waters were few and anyway the carp in them mostly did not exceed the low thirty pounds and most only held a few twenties at best and only the odd far rarer thirty.

In fact during this period most average carp anglers never even saw a thirty pound carp or even visited a carp holding more than 2 or three thirty pound fish, let alone caught one. On one syndicate water I fished it took me 8 years of consistent very regular fishing to catch my first thirties from there simply because they did not grow to that weight until that time – and this has been the case all around the country.

Such fish are now in the forties and above and it is taken for granted, but those fish average 25 to 30 years of age or more. In fact my results went from zero twenties from there in a year circa 1983 when the biggest fish in there was 19 pounds, to catching 20 fish averaging 19.12 pounds caught in just one incredible 5 day session that included the biggest in the lake (at around 35 pounds back in 1992), that rightly was my last ever session there. (This was at Shotgate reservoir in Essex.)

Of course all sounds crazy to newer carp anglers today. A complete beginner can go to any of the new brand of commercial instant carp angler fisheries armed with readymade baits and all the fancy over-priced rods and reels and bivvies and alarms etc and hook thirties, forties and even fifties and above. Such fisheries really were not a great part of the scene not that long ago.

I cannot complain about the huge numbers foreign fish now in the UK; it has allowed far more anglers access to big fish without having to fish for over thirty years as I have, but it does totally belittle catches of smaller fish which may in the past have been some of the mostly highly regarded, most significant and difficult fish to catch in the countries best known carp waters from the past. I vividly remember the season I first caught 2 English thirties in a season; I’m not so sure of the year I first caught over ten thirties from a commercial water although I do certainly remember the year I caught ten forties from a certain well-known commercial water.

But frankly the 20 forties I have banked to date from UK commercial waters do not compare with the achievement of my first thirty because of how many years it took to catch it, even though captures of some of my forties were the result of some of the most intelligent fishing and bait designing I have ever done.

Probably one of the biggest most dangerous problems imported foreign fish is the mixing of slightly differently adapted carp immune systems and carp bloodlines etc in response to various conditions, diseases and parasites etc. And we all already know about the koi herpes viruses and spring veremia which have tragically killed many carp both imported and already in lakes here.

Also very much comes down to opinions in regard to when exactly does a carp count as an English carp – perhaps if it is imported as a fingerling as were many of the countries biggest carp, or maybe when their next generation are adults perhaps? As we have no indigenous carp and they are all imported ultimately maybe the only true English ones might be considered the original wild carp. The irony is that these are notoriously slow-growing compared to other strains and to catch even a double-figure truly wild carp would be a fantastic feat – if you could find any that is!

Anyway, the arguments continue, but clean inspected and legal carp are in the modern carp fishing system and here to stay – not many angler realise how much corruption of fisheries has taken place over the decades and just a few of the big carp most of us know of by name are not necessarily fully English; if you get my meaning. It is a fact that even clean certificated foreign fish can still pass on factors which can kill our indigenous fish because the scientists do not know everything about them yet in order to identify them!

Considering it can take a carp over 30 years to realise its potential as a sport fish and such a fish can be lost in an instant is something every carp angler has great reason to be concerned about, but having said that, carp are an incredibly adaptive species and beneficial often seemingly minor genetic changes and mutations occur in humans and carp all the time; after all what are koi carp, ghost carp, goldfish and mirror and leather carp (and all king carp) after all?

Having strayed so far from the original path of this piece, as you may have surmised, carp have been an all-consuming passion of mine for most of my 46 years and noticing that carp are on a development and learning curve just like us humans is extremely interesting. We are adapted to be able to sense the most energy-efficient foods that keep us alive and carp are just the same.

But in the case of us humans, our physical limbs, bodies, and digestive systems have evolved to utilise carbohydrates to a predominant degree. Carp in contrast are incredibly highly adapted to get the most out of protein foods. When you think about it the logic is simple.

Here are just a few obvious but vital differences to appreciate between humans and carp: Here we are inefficiently air-breathing into big energy-sapping lungs in a body walking on land, with a huge requirement for energy because we have gravity to content with and we are warm-blooded so we are always expending energy just to keep our body temperature stable enough to stay alive.

Fish do not waste energy maintaining a constant body temperature that is different to the water surrounding them, and they have a swim bladder to automatically their depth against water pressure and not gravity.

Carp gills are highly energy-efficient; their rate of respiration, metabolism, movements, feeding and digestion are all directly linked to water temperatures which govern their entire existence through the changing seasons. You could say carp are a direct reflection of their surroundings, whilst we constantly keep trying to adapt and control our surroundings to make us more energy efficient – and in doing so end up poisoning the land, the air we breathe and the water we drink – not so clever eh?! Its time to use that secret free energy technology certain parties are hiding and for electricity, gas, and oil companies to give up their strangle hold on us before prices really do become insane and precipitate a new (last) world war!

I used to study climatology as part of my years of professional horticultural studies. I plotted all the average winter temperatures for the past 100 years to compare them, because I was trying to forecast which plants there would most be a market for in the future and also see how fishing conditions differed from the Eighties going back decades and decades ago.

What I discovered seriously alarmed me because I realise of course that strange anomalous changes can occur and temperature fluctuations have often happened over periods of thousands of years in the past, and ice-ages can suddenly appear following sustained much warmer periods, but these can be analysed and the causes can be strongly justified.

However, the temperature rises I saw from the 1970s to the early Eighties were nothing short of shocking – this was 10 years before I ever heard of any scientists whispering about global warming! I have experienced growing seasons and animal and bird and insect behaviours changing immensely and foreign bird and even the dangerous false widow spider are thriving and over-wintering in the UK now.

Its things like this that tell me it is time we changed our behaviour too! Anyway, part of the adaptation to such climate change has been more frequent and more consistent feeding from earlier and later in many recent years than previously; often right through some winters (such as the recent warmest ones on record!)

Any experienced carp angler who has fished regularly enough for the last couple of decades and longer has observed the changing in timings of traditional carp binge feeding. In fact look at the amount of persistent weed growth in many lakes in recent years, even through the winters. Considering this imagine just how much natural food is spared by the vast number of anglers baits introduced each year and the intricate relationship between so many carp food organisms and weed growth just for starters, and you see part of the bigger picture of why carp are growing so big today and how they are changing right now!

Along with all this though is the question of how carp actually detect their food. I am not going to go into this very much because my bait secrets ebooks cover this kind detail in many ways. But consider the implications of this; carp can detect chilli bioactives using specialised sensory pits along their lateral line and use special senses in the same region to actually detect the most energy-efficient concentration of extremely nutrient-rich extremely digestible plankton and even the most suitable bloodworm concentrations in certain situations for the most energy-efficient feeding.

Carp senses of taste and smell are incredibly adapted and far better than even a bloodhounds, detecting some substances down to a few parts per billion. Carp see partly into the ultraviolet and infrared ranges of the light spectrum and use a kind of echo-sounding system to orient themselves in the water and further detect their location, objects, prey and predators; yes carp definitely are carnivorous at times and not simply omnivores.

Anyway, lots more can be said, but the point is that they are the product of countless adaptations refined and re-refined over and over again over generations and generations and as such are the supreme version to date of their form as reflections of their environment. But they are not ever static even today and it is actually possible to make carp more sensitive to certain food components and substances so they even more readily detect them and even alter their behaviours and modes of feeding to feed on baits designed by man rather than just feeding on natural foods that carp have fed on naturally for generations.

This is a big point; both we and carp have the ability to detect and sample foods and suggestions of potential food sources even though they may not represent food we have experienced before. This means that we and carp can not only detect betaine, an amine that is naturally a part of us and critical to our survival, but we can also detect completely new substances because our sensory proteins in our sensory cells can adapt to a degree. We do not know the full story either and marine biologists and fish scientists etc are learning more about fish behaviours and adaptations all the time.

By constantly baiting a fishing bait containing certain substances it is possible to change many carp taste preferences and taste is far more important in many ways than smell in water compared to air. It has been shown over and over again that bait palatability is a vital component of successful baits that carp are extremely willing to consume repeatedly – so giving you best chances of takes and more fish as a result.

Taste adaptation is just one ability carp have that is also common with us humans. Think about it because this is one huge edge and one I use in literally all my baits today in whatever forms!

This is whether it is topping popular readymade baits, or more usually designing and making my own homemade boilies, pellets, ground baits, particle preparations, and unique bioactive nutritionally-stimulating bait dips, complexes and flavour preparations and so on.

I will stop here with this thought; try eating foods for 2 weeks that contain no sugar, no salt, no yeast extract, no spices or spice or herb extracts, no milk and no wheat (that is just for starters.) Or simply avoid all caffeine or alcohol for 2 weeks; notice how you feel and you will find your body, brain chemistry and consequent behaviours had become addicted to an unexpected degree.

Now do you see how addictive carp baits can really be beyond simple taste, smell, biological convertibility of proteins, first to third amino acids etc! (For more see my big carp and catfish bait secrets bibles at Baitbigfish.)

Author: Tim Richardson.

Now why not seize this moment to improve your catches for life with these unique fishing bibles: “BIG CARP FLAVOURS FEEDING TRIGGERS AND CARP SENSES EXPLOITATION SECRETS!” “BIG CARP AND CATFISH BAIT SECRETS!” And “BIG CARP BAIT SECRETS!” For these and much more now visit: http://www.baitbigfish.com Home of world-wide proven ready-made and homemade bait success secrets bibles and big fish proven fishing advice!

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